Monthly Archives: September 2016

Day 15 – The Caprivi Strip

Today I drove 400 miles in a straight line on an empty road.

Well, not completely empty. There was a goat.

Overlanding is all about the journey, but there are some days when the only challenge is staying awake.

Just 39 degrees C today.

Ended at Ngepi Camp with an outdoor bathroom in the trees overlooking the Kavango river. Anyone fancy a swim?

PS I can’t see them, but I can hear the hippos.

They sound exactly like Jabba The Hut.

Delicious “meaty balls” with mash and pickled beetroot for dinner.

Tomorrow – crossing the border into Zimbabwe. Fingers crossed for an easy time. I hate borders.

Day 14 – Onguma Tented Camp

If you look closely you’ll see the tables laid out along the decking for dinner. This is instead of them all being in the restaurant space at one end. It means I am at one end and the loudmouthed German idiot is right at the other end. The staff have done this just for me. I can still hear him but the bullfrogs are louder.

Lazy day around the waterhole today. Pool, delicious food, oncredible service.

Relaxing in one place for a change because next up are two very long driving days to get to Victoria Falls, if I can get across the Zimbabwe border without too much hassle. And without my drone being confiscated.

Stop the press – over there somewhere, creeping around in the dark on the other side of the water hole, less than 50 metres away from where I sit eating sringbok, with no fences in between, is a leopard!

A leopard. Metres from my tent.

They weren’t kidding about not being allowed to walk around the camp alone after dark!

Day 14 – Onguma Tented Camp

Here’s my “tent”…

Post from RICOH THETA. #theta360uk – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA

Post from RICOH THETA. #theta360uk – Spherical Image – RICOH THETA

And here’s my pool…

The local wildlife have their own pool in the background. At breakfast time there were impala, warthogs, countless birds with colourful beaks, and oryx.

The hotel information booklet in my room has the usual stuff about laundry and fire alarms, but also a section on what to do in the event of a snakebite.

The camp provides these three essential in room amenities:

  1. Mosquito repellent
  2. Bug spray
  3. An air horn for use in “serious emergencies”


Dinner last night was kudu steak, followed by a glass of Amarula over ice while seated by the fire pit and watching the antelope at the water hole, marred only by the effing loudmouth Swiss tourist who talked nonstop for three hours while his companions occasionally said “yeah, uh huh, really…” One of those arseholes who thinks every silence will be improved by his voice.

STFU and enjoy this incredible environment! 

Thankfully today I can’t hear him and anyway this place is too amazing to care.

Day 13 – Etosha

It’s the times when things don’t go to plan that you end up with the best stories.

Like the story of how I spent the last 5 hours in the company of this Namibian police woman…

I’m sure you remember, dear reader, that the police at the western gate impounded my drone and promised to send it to the eastern gate. I didn’t believe them, and I was right.

I arrived at the east gate this afternoon, and they knew nothing about a drone.

Not sure what to do, but determined to try something, I happened upon the offices of the park rangers, and a lovely man called Moses.

Moses rang the west gate and confirmed that they did still have my drone and had no way to send it.

Moses then became another in the list of heroes who have assisted in my adventures. Moses made some more calls, and next thing I know I’m driving 150km across rough gravel trails all the way to the west gate to collect my drone, and 150km back again, all at speeds more than 50% above the park limit, with this lovely young policewoman in my passenger seat, armed with a pistol and a rifle, to ensure that no drone flying occurred!

They must take unauthorised drone flying very seriously in Etosha!


And then….

On the way back…

I saw something out of the corner of my eye…

Something in the distance across the grass…

It was a long way away, and with 80 miles still to go to get my policewoman back to her home, I didn’t have time to wait for better photos…

But I think you’ll have to agree…

That’s a lion!

There were two of them. All the other animals on the plain, 2 elephants, a zebra, and countless antelope, all stood motionless and watched very closely as the lions just strolled about as if they owned the place.

What a day!

Oh, and I made it to my luxury safari camp. It’s absolutely mind-blowingly amazing. More on that later. For now, let’s just say that from the main deck where the restaurant, lounge, and pool overlooking the waterhole are, I’m not allowed to walk back to my tented cabin without staff escorts, because of the cheetahs and the leopards….